Drywall FAQs

No, we do not test for asbestos.

You should search online for a licensced asbestos consultant to take samples and run a test for you. There are plenty of certified companies throughout Florida that will help you. Getting the results can sometimes take as little as 48 hours.

You can also purchase a home test kit at a retailer like Lowe's or Home Depot or even order online from Amazon. Some people believe the quality of these test kits can be less reliable than using a licensed company to handle the whole process so please consider that risk. With an at-home test, your samples will likely still need to be mailed to a lab for analysis. One of the major risks with this method is that you can potentially be exposing yourself and your household to asbestos while gathering the test sample. Even minimal exposure to the substance is reportedly enough to cause harm if inhaled.

Asbestos was one of the earliest substances to be considered hazardous (as an air pollutant) by the EPA in the early 1970s. Unfortunately it continued to be used in all kinds of materials used for the construction of homes and commercial buildings long after the 1970s. If it is not disrupted, there may be no harm to the inhabitants, however during construction or renovation materials can become loose or broken which spread asbestos into the air and surroundings. For this reason it should not be touched, broken or moved if you suspect a material in your home has asbestos. The problem results when the fibers are released into the air and then inhaled or ingested. Exposure to asbestos can lead to cancer or other serious illnesses.

If your popcorn ceiling does not contain asbestos, we can help by having it scraped and removed safely by our trained professionals.

For more detailed info and general advice on how to find a professional licensed inspector, you can visit www.epa.gov/asbestos.

If we had a single number we could put here, it would make everyone's life easier but the reality is there are many factors that go into pricing each drywall job.

Sometimes we are able to price large jobs by the total number of drywall boards that will be used to complete the work. Often times on small to medium sized jobs, the quote is developed based on total square feet and how intricate the layout is (flat wall vs the corner of the room, or a complete set of rooms). If you have a residential install and you know the square footage of the home that can be very helpful. Please remember we will also need the ceiling height too. For a large home that has an 8' ceiling compared to a 10' ceiling, the square footage can be much different.

Also the type of work can play a part. Commercial drywall installations compared to residential drywall jobs may not always work out to the same cost if the delivery, prep, cleanup, and labor will be different for one locale. Timing can be a factor as well. While our team is large and can typically act fast, if you have strict deadlines that may require us to work specific shifts, this could become more expensive. We may also need to build in cleanup time or extra prep time if you're living in the house versus a new construction project that doesn't have carpet or other finishings installed on the site.

The bottom line is that we can usually provide a Tampa drywall bid very quickly once we have all of the specs for your space, but the best first step is to get on the phone with us so we can ask you the right questions in order to get you the most accurate drywall price for your specific project.

Sheetrock is actually a brand name used for a product made by the USG, United States Gypsum Corporation. Sheetrock is patented because there are unique chemicals used in its creation, but as far as the general use and end result, Sheetrock and drywall boards are mostly the same. The names sheetrock and drywall have become interchangable with contractors over the years.

Gypsum is a mineral that is ground and dehydrated before it is pressed between two sheets of thick paper, cut to various sizes and sold as drywall board. Much of it is mined out of Canada and used all over the world in it's many final forms, drywall and plaster being two of the biggest in the construction industry.

Plaster (with gypsum) is used for wall material on the inside of homes too however, when in a plaster form, water is added to create a spreadable paste that is applied as a final coat when building walls. Originally, plaster contained lime instead of gypsum but later gypsum became the go-to choice because it dried faster and this allowed for decreased time on construction jobs. This same gypsum is also used for patching and repairing drywall when damages occur. This is commonly referred to as drywall mud.

Although plaster has an appealing unique look, it is much less common than drywall board. The main reasons are cost along with ease of installation and repair. Plaster takes longer to apply (always done by hand in multiple coats) and takes longer to dry. Each of these more time consuming methods for plaster application lead to a higher cost than traditional drywall installs. As for repairs, plaster is more prone to cracking which can be more challenging to securely fix.

Nowadays drywall is easily attached to metal or wood studs. For a long time, it has been equally common to use it for wall and ceiling installations. We prefer to work with drywall for our customers because it is the most reliable, least expensive, most effecient way to build interior settings.

Traditional drywall, like the kind used throughout your home, is not recommended for bathroom use. The best type of drywall to use in any wet room, like a kitchen, laundry room, or bathroom, is a board that is designed to be mold, mildew, and moisture resistant.

Instead of standard drywall, one of the best materials to be used for bathroom walls is called MMR drywall. This product is made with moisture-resistant materials on both the inside and outside for best protection. During manufacturing, the outside is covered in water-resistant paper or possibly coated in wax to help prevent any water penetration to the core. There are many specific types, like green board and blue board. All have various levels of protection and are designed for slighty different uses.

Even though water shouldn't be in frequent contact with the actual walls of your bathroom, these spaces will experience a higher level of moisture than other rooms in your house. Bathrooms are also subject to more drastic temperature changes than anywhere else, except maybe the kitchen.

Although direct contact to water may be limited, the moisture level or humidity in a bathroom can be frequently high. With a regular drywall board and little protection (say from a cheap paint or alternative) mold or mildew could begin to form over time in your bathroom walls. While the cost of MMR is more than standard drywall, the expense is well worth it given the protection you're getting and the monetary costs of having to tear out and repair a rotting bathroom wall. Plus the health consequences of mold in your home should be avoided for all members of the household. Remember, there is not a need to upgrade to this board throughout your entire home;  just in high-moisture areas.

Anywhere where MMR is chosen to be hung, you'll want to pay special attention to your mud making sure you are selecting a brand that advertises mold and moisture resistance. This combination will provide the best protection against penetration of any wetness. Apply a waterproof primer on top of any paint coat in bathrooms as well.

Remember all these products combined are just for areas of your bathroom where drywall would normall go. They are not a replacement for bathroom tile. The manufacturers website even states that they are not intended for use in saunas or swimming pools because they are not designed to withstand constant moisture, but rather normal fluctuations of moisture and humidity from normal bathroom usage. Fans and drafts like from a cracked door or window can also help with circulation and prevention of water damage problems in a bathroom.

We have plenty of sources for and experience with MMR and traditional drywall. Pick up the phone if you have a unique project or simply need to ask some questions of our team.

Some call these tradespeople drywallers but many people in the industry refer to a professional  installer as a drywall hanger. This is because the phrase "hang drywall" is commonly used to explain the installation. Wall board is hung in place and screwed on to wood or metal studs in a home or building to create the most typical, flat finished walls we are used to seeing instead of brick or another interior surface. 

Many of the tools used by a hanger are hammers or screw drivers, tape measures, utility knives, power saws plus tape, mud and trowels or drywall knives. 

The latter tools are used most often and sometimes in the most particular way. While drywall can certainly be acheived by an ambitious do-it-yourselfer, the application of tape and mud can take a bit of practice to master. With enough routine application, a rhythm and feel for the process is acquired but in a smaller area, like a single room addition or new bathroom, sometimes the process can be difficult to apply and smooth without plenty of previous experience and practice.

With so many choices in the market for who to hire for drywall installation in Tampa, make sure you get a qualified contractor like Tampa Drywall Specialists, with years of experience and a dependable team so that your walls don't look like an amature did the work. We are your premium choice for level 5 drywall in Tampa as well as texture application, popcorn ceiling removal and even commercial drywall installations.

We are not a drywall supplier. For most jobs, we source the product from a local supplier. We serve as a drywall contractor for installations and repair. We do not sell drywall to clients. For small amounts, you can find standard drywall at your local Home Depot or Lowe's store if you prefer to do the job on your own.

Best practice is to hang drywall from the top of the room to the bottom of the room. The reason for this is that you are able to get the tightest and best looking joint up by the ceiling. Most homes and businesses have baseboards around the floors so if you leave a small gap for movement and expansion (1/2" or less) around the floor, the baseboards or carpet will safely cover that area. 

Crown molding (between the walls and the ceiling) is typically not used in all rooms so getting a tight, straight joint at the ceiling is helpful aesthetically. The joint will also be straight when using a fresh sheet of drywall. Depending upon the height of your ceilings, you may have to cut the board to fit...so in case your cut is rough or not straight, it would be better to hide the cut at the bottom of the room, behind the baseboards.